Kosmaj

In Serbian ethnic environment, in both male and female folk costumes, the name "jelek" is used for a waistcoat made of cloth, fabric, velvet or silk, decorated with embroidery, bands, sterling silver ribbons, metal buckles and other decorative details. In central Serbia, male waistcoat is not buttoned, it consists of front and back part, narrowing towards the bottom and with lateral back extensions. Around the neck there is a tight collar, layered with single colour cotton linen, which was also on the front borders and the lower hem of the waistcoat. It was waist-long, with front borders that do not touch, so that under it one could see nicely embroidered shirt bust. They were decorated with black woolen or silk bands, in the shape of wavy lines, twill weave and flatly positioned rows. These decorations are present on the collar, along front borders, lower hem and openings for arms, but there were also some waistcoats whose material could not even be seen from the quantity of band work. Female waistcoat was also sleeveless and waist-long. It was tailored from purchased material, most often dark blue, red, brown or dark red velvet. It was layered with cotton and it was richly decorated with sterling silver with tinsels, relief embroidery done over a small cotton balls, metal threads or silk bands. It was at the front and unlike the male waistcoat, it was buttoned with metal buckles or porcelain buttons. They could be purchased at the tailor`s in towns, but village tailors also made them.

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